Outboard Remote Stater Instructions: 1. Connect one lead to the yellow/red wire on the terminal of the solenoid. Be careful as these connections are close to the hot terminal! 2. Connect the other lead to the 5/16" terminal on the solenoid with the HOT battery cable. This is the heavier gauge RED cable coming from the positive side of your battery. 3. Once clear of the powerhead, moving parts, propeller, and opened gas fumes, push the Remote Outboard Starter Switch to crank over the motor.

The gear ratio refers to the number of drive shaft revolutions for one revolution of the propeller. For example, if an outboard has a 2:1 gear ratio, it means that for one revolution of the propeller, the engine drive shaft turns twice. A lower-unit gear ratio of 1.50:1 means that it takes 1.5 revolutions of the engine to turn the propeller in one complete rotation. The pitch of a propeller measures the forward movement of the propeller's blade during one complete revolution. A lower pitch prop will increase acceleration and thrust, but top speed will suffer. A higher pitch prop will deliver greater top speeds, but slower acceleration. The formula for calculating prop performance is (RPM x Ratio) x Pitch = inches per minute. This chart has done the math for us and provides 28 different prop pitch & gear combos to join the 100 mph club.

Propeller pitch, diameter, rake, and cupping are critical factors that directly impact the performance of high-speed boats, especially those powered by high-performance engines like the Mercury Racing 2-stroke and 4-stroke outboards. Here’s how each of these propeller characteristics affects performance: Pitch : Effect : Pitch refers to the theoretical distance (in inches) that a propeller would move forward in one revolution if it were moving through a soft solid. Higher-pitch props move more water per revolution and are suitable for boats needing higher top speeds. Lower-pitch props move less water per revolution and are better suited for boats that need more torque or acceleration. Impact : Choosing the right pitch affects the engine's RPM range at which it operates most efficiently. Too high a pitch can lead to over-revving or lugging the engine, while too low a pitch can result in the engine not reaching its maximum potential RPM. Optimal pitch ensures the engine operates within its peak power band throughout the boat's speed range. Diameter : Effect : Diameter is the distance across the propeller blades from tip to tip when it is rotating. Larger-diameter propellers can provide more thrust and are generally better for heavy boats or those needing quick acceleration. Smaller diameter props reduce drag and can lead to higher top speeds. Impact : Diameter affects the propeller's grip on the water and its ability to transfer engine power efficiently. Choosing the correct diameter ensures the propeller can handle the engine's power output without excessive slippage or cavitation. Rake : Effect : Rake refers to the angle of the propeller blades in relation to the hub. High-rake propellers have blades that are angled forward more aggressively, while low-rake propellers have blades that are more vertical or slightly angled backward. Impact : Rake influences how the propeller interacts with the water during acceleration, cruising, and at top speed. High-rake propellers typically offer better top-end speed by reducing drag and improving hydrodynamic efficiency. Low-rake propellers provide better bite and stability, enhancing acceleration and maneuverability. Cupping : Effect : Cupping is the curvature of the trailing edge of the propeller blades. Cupped propellers have a slightly concave shape at the blade tips. Impact : Cupping enhances grip and bites on the water, improving acceleration and reducing ventilation and cavitation. It also helps to maintain optimal RPM under varying load conditions. Cupped propellers are beneficial for high-performance applications where maximizing efficiency and reducing slip are critical. In summary, choosing the right combination of propeller pitch, diameter, rake, and cupping is essential for optimizing the performance of high-speed boats. Factors such as boat weight, engine power, desired top speed, and handling characteristics all play roles in determining the ideal propeller specifications. Working with experienced propeller specialists or tuners who understand these nuances can help ensure you select and fine-tune your propeller setup to achieve the best balance of speed, acceleration, efficiency, and handling for your specific high-performance boat. Call Mike +1-714-697-1716 to discuss your setup.

Straightening the bottom (running surface) of a high-performance single or twin-engine outboard boat is essential for maximizing speed, handling, and overall performance on the water. Imperfections like hooks (concave areas) and rockers (convex areas) on the bottom hull can disrupt water flow, change lift, create drag, and adversely affect stability and control. This technical guide will walk you through the process of identifying, straightening, and blueprinting (fine-tuning) the bottom of your boat to eliminate these performance-robbing flaws. Understanding Hooks and Rockers Hook:  A hook is a concave area along the running surface of the boat hull. It often develops due to age, impacts, improper storage, or even OEM manufacturing flaws when the hull cures in the mold. Hooks create suction, increasing drag and causing the bow to run lower, reducing speed and hampering acceleration. Rocker:  A rocker is a convex area on the hull, often near the transom. Rockers can cause the boat to porpoise (bounce), lead to a blowover or reduce lift, and negatively impact handling at high speeds. Tools and Materials Needed Straightedges (4-6 feet long) Spirit level or digital level Sanding blocks or longboard sanders 80-600 grit sandpaper Fairing compound (marine-grade) Fiberglass resin and cloth (if needed) Body filler (optional) Mixing cups and stir sticks Masking tape Personal protective equipment (gloves, respirator, goggles) Step 1: Assess the Bottom Condition Dry Dock the Boat : Safely secure the boat on a trailer or lift, ensuring the bottom is accessible. Ensure it's level on both the longitudinal and transverse axes. Inspect the Bottom : Using a straightedge, inspect the entire length of the running surface focusing on the last 36 inches of the stern area. Place the straightedge along the centerline and at various points outward toward the chines. Check for any slight air and light gaps indicating hooks or rockers. Mark Problem Areas : Use masking tape to outline the affected areas. Mark hooks and rockers clearly to visualize the work scope. Step 2: Prepare the Surface Sand the Area : Start by sanding the marked areas using the right 80-220 grit sandpaper on a longboard sander based on the amount of material you will need to remove. This roughens the surface, ensuring the fairing compound adheres properly. Sand beyond the immediate problem area to allow for smooth transitions. Clean the Hull : Wipe down the sanded areas with acetone or a suitable marine cleaner to remove dust, oil, and debris. Ensure the surface is clean and dry before applying the fairing compound. Step 3: Fairing the Hull Mix Fairing Compound : Mix the marine-grade fairing compound according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Fairing compounds are designed to adhere well, sand easily, and resist water intrusion. Apply the Compound : Using a spreader, apply the compound to the sanded areas, filling in the hooks and leveling rockers. Apply in thin, even coats, building up as needed. Focus on creating a flat, continuous surface with smooth transitions and sharper edges. Level with a Straightedge : Use your straightedge frequently to check your progress. Adjust and apply more compound as necessary until the surface is flush. Allow to Cure : Let the fairing compound fully cure according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. This typically takes 24 to 48 hours, depending on the product and ambient conditions. Step 4: Sand and Refine Sand the Cured Compound : Once cured, sand the faired areas using progressively finer grits (starting with 100 grit and finishing with 220 grit) to achieve a smooth, flat surface. Keep checking with the straightedge to ensure the area is perfectly straight. Blend Edges : Feather the edges of the faired area into the surrounding hull to avoid sharp transitions that could cause drag. Inspect for High or Low Spots : Use the straightedge and level to inspect for any remaining high or low spots. Reapply the fairing compound if needed and repeat sanding until the surface is perfect. Step 5: Reinforce if Necessary Fiberglass Reinforcement : If structural repairs were made or significant material was removed, consider reinforcing the area with fiberglass cloth and resin. This adds strength and ensures the hull can withstand high-speed forces. Apply Resin : Lay fiberglass cloth over the affected area, apply resin, and smooth it out with a squeegee. Allow curing, then sand smooth. Step 6: Final Finishing Apply a Sealer or Barrier Coat : Once the surface is fully refined, apply a marine-grade sealer or barrier coat to protect the hull from water intrusion and ensure a smooth, drag-free surface. Finish with Bottom Paint : If necessary, finish with high-performance bottom paint suitable for racing. This final coat will enhance hydrodynamics and provide additional protection. Step 7: Test the Boat Water Trial : Take the boat out for a test run to assess the improvements in speed and handling. Note any changes in performance and make additional adjustments if needed. Fine-Tune Trim : Adjust engine height and trim settings to fully exploit the newly straightened hull for peak performance. Conclusion Straightening the bottom of your high-performance single or twin-engine outboard engine boat is a meticulous process that can significantly enhance speed, handling, and overall performance. By carefully identifying and removing hooks and rockers, you reduce drag, improve stability, and get the most out of your setup. Regular maintenance and hull inspections will help keep your boat performing at its best, giving you a competitive edge on the water.

Setting Timing on Mercury V6 Two-Stroke Outboards: Why 0.462” BTDC Matters Achieving precise ignition timing is crucial for the optimal performance and longevity of Mercury V6 two-stroke outboard engines. One key step in timing these engines is setting the piston to 0.462 inches before Top Dead Center (BTDC)  rather than directly at TDC. This method addresses the issue of piston dwell and ensures accurate timing alignment. Understanding Piston Dwell As the piston approaches TDC, it experiences a brief phase known as piston dwell , where its movement slows significantly. During this dwell period, the piston’s position changes minimally despite the crankshaft rotating several degrees. This makes it challenging to pinpoint the exact TDC with tools like a dial indicator, leading to potential inaccuracies in ignition timing. Why Set Timing at 0.462” BTDC? Setting the piston to 0.462 inches BTDC avoids the imprecision caused by piston dwell and offers several advantages: • Enhanced Accuracy : Aligning the timing marks at 0.462” BTDC ensures a reliable and measurable reference point, reducing errors from dwell ambiguities. • Optimal Ignition Timing : This setting ensures the spark plug fires at the correct moment before TDC, resulting in efficient combustion and maximum engine performance. • Simplified Calibration : Using the 0.462” BTDC mark allows for easier synchronization of the flywheel and timing pointer, streamlining the timing adjustment process. Timing Procedure for Mercury V6 Two-Stroke Outboards For legacy Mercury V6 two-stroke outboard engines, following the manufacturer’s recommended timing procedures, including the 0.462” BTDC setting, is essential. This ensures the engine operates at peak performance while minimizing wear and extending its lifespan. Addressing piston dwell by setting the piston to 0.462 inches BTDC, rather than at TDC, is a critical step for precise ignition timing on Mercury V6 two-stroke outboard engines. This practice optimizes engine performance, improves efficiency, and enhances longevity, making it essential for any owner striving for maximum performance from their outboard.

The tethered kill switch and safety lanyard, also known as a boat engine cutoff switch, was developed as a safety response to the increasing risks associated with motorized boating, particularly with the rise of powerful outboard engines in the mid-20th century. Here's a brief look at the origins and history of these tethered safety devices: Origins in the 1950s and 1960s: Development of High-Performance Outboards : As outboard motors became more powerful and popular, especially for recreational boating, racing, and commercial use, the need for enhanced safety measures became apparent. Initial Safety Concerns : Early outboard motors did not have safety mechanisms to stop the engine if the operator was thrown from the helm, leading to dangerous situations like runaway boats or circling vessels that could injure or kill those who fell overboard. Introduction of Kill Switches: Early Designs : Kill switches began appearing in the 1960s, initially as simple toggle switches that manually shut off the engine. These early versions were crude but laid the foundation for modern designs. Innovation with Lanyards : The lanyard concept was introduced to make the cutoff switch automatic. A coiled or straight cord was attached between the operator and the switch, ensuring the engine would shut down if the operator was ejected from the helm. Adoption in Boating Regulations: 1970s and 1980s : As boating accidents continued, manufacturers and safety advocates pushed for the widespread use of tethered kill switches. Boat racing organizations were among the first to mandate their use due to the high speeds and risks involved. Government and Safety Standards : By the late 1980s and 1990s, many countries, including the U.S., began implementing regulations requiring kill switches on certain vessels. The U.S. Coast Guard and other safety agencies promoted these devices as essential for reducing boating fatalities. Modern Innovations: Technological Advancements : Today’s tethered kill switches are more advanced, often incorporating wireless technology for greater convenience and range. However, the basic lanyard design remains popular due to its simplicity, reliability, and effectiveness. Customization and Compatibility : Modern versions, like the Buckshot Racing #77 Custom Paracord Lanyard, offer a custom Paracord tether and multiple key attachments, ensuring compatibility across a wide range of outboard motors and making them versatile for various boating activities. The tethered kill switch safety lanyard for all boats remains a crucial piece of safety equipment, rooted in a history of innovation aimed at protecting boaters and reducing the risks associated with high-performance boating.

Water ingress into the electrical connections of a Mercury 2-stroke outboard engine can have detrimental effects on the voltage regulator, rectifiers, and stators. The exposure to water can lead to various issues that can impact the performance and reliability of these components. 1. Corrosion:  One of the primary effects of water ingress on electrical connections is corrosion. When water comes into contact with metal components within the electrical system, it can cause oxidation and corrosion to occur. This corrosion can weaken the connections, leading to poor conductivity and potential failure of the components. 2. Short Circuits:  Water ingress can also result in short circuits within the electrical system. When water bridges the gap between two conductive elements, it creates a path for current to flow outside of its intended circuit. This can cause damage to sensitive electronic components like voltage regulators, rectifiers, and stators. 3. Insulation Damage:  Water entering electrical connections can compromise the insulation surrounding wires and components. Insulation damage increases the risk of short circuits, arcing, and electrical fires. It can also lead to erratic behavior in the electrical system, affecting the overall performance of the outboard engine. 4. Reduced Efficiency:  Water ingress can disrupt the normal functioning of voltage regulators, rectifiers, and stators. This disruption can lead to a decrease in efficiency in regulating voltage output and converting AC power to DC power. As a result, the outboard engine may experience power fluctuations or fail to operate at optimal levels. 5. Component Failure:  Prolonged exposure to water ingress can ultimately cause component failure in the voltage regulator, rectifiers, and stators. The increased risk of corrosion, short circuits, insulation damage, and reduced efficiency all contribute to a higher likelihood of component failure over time. In conclusion, water ingress on electrical connections in Mercury 2-stroke outboard engines can have severe consequences on critical components such as voltage regulators, rectifiers, and stators. It is essential to prevent water from entering these connections through proper maintenance practices and protective measures to ensure the longevity and performance of the outboard engine’s electrical system. The most common part to blow? The 20 AMP Voltage Regulators on 40 AMP Ignition Systems.

Why Disconnecting the Positive Side is Best Practice for Outboard Motor Batteries? Proper battery management is critical for the safety, reliability, and performance of outboard motors, whether powering legacy 2-stroke engines  or modern 4-stroke outboards . A battery disconnect switch is an essential component for isolating your boat's electrical system during maintenance, towing, emergencies, and storage. Across the board, disconnecting the positive (12V) terminal  is considered the safest and most effective practice, with added importance for high-performance and race boats, as well as 4-stroke outboards with advanced electrical systems. Why Positive-Side Disconnection is Key Disconnecting the positive terminal ensures the complete isolation of the electrical system. This minimizes risks like accidental shorts, sparks, or unintended power flow during maintenance. For legacy 2-stroke outboards, this practice protects basic electrical and ignition parts from damage caused by accidental live circuits. In new 4-stroke outboards, with more intricate electronic systems such as sensors, fuel injection, and onboard diagnostics, fully isolating the battery is even more critical to avoid costly damage or system malfunctions. High-Performance and Race Boats Race boats and high-performance outboards rely on precision and peak reliability. Any residual battery drain or unintended electrical activity can compromise performance, making full disconnection of the positive terminal a necessity. These performance boats also often employ advanced AiM or Race Logic type data acquisition systems that are sensitive to surges or shorts, making proper isolation crucial for safety and functionality. Importance with Lithium Batteries The rise of lithium-ion batteries  in outboard applications adds another layer of importance to positive-side disconnection. Lithium batteries are prized for their lightweight, high power output, and efficiency, but they are also more sensitive to overcharging, excessive discharge, and short circuits leading to potentially devastating and uncontrollable fires. Disconnecting the positive terminal minimizes the risks of electrical faults, protects battery health, and ensures safety. Unlike traditional lead-acid batteries, lithium batteries can experience thermal runaway if improperly handled, making proper disconnection and isolation critical. Additional Benefits In both 2-stroke and 4-stroke outboards, a properly installed marine-grade battery disconnect switch  prevents slow battery drain, a common issue that can significantly shorten battery lifespan. This is particularly relevant for boats left in storage for extended periods. Additionally, disconnecting the positive side ensures that no residual power flows to the electrical system, protecting components from corrosion or inadvertent damage. Why Not Disconnect the Negative Terminal? While disconnecting the negative terminal can also break the circuit, it leaves the positive terminal live. This creates a risk of accidental grounding, particularly in marine environments where metal tools or water exposure can bridge the circuit. The risk is amplified in modern 4-stroke outboards and high-performance setups with complex electrical systems. Disconnecting the positive terminal eliminates these risks and ensures compliance with marine safety standards. Best Practices for Outboard Motors Use a Marine-Grade Disconnect Switch : Designed for harsh environments, these switches resist corrosion and vibrations. Follow Manufacturer Guidelines : Ensure installation aligns with your outboard's specific wiring diagram. Test the System : Regularly verify the disconnect switch effectively cuts power to the entire system. For both legacy 2-stroke  and modern 4-stroke outboards , disconnecting the positive terminal is a best practice that enhances safety, preserves battery life, and ensures compliance with marine standards. Paired with a marine-grade battery disconnect switch , this approach is vital for race boats, high-performance setups, and any application using lithium-ion batteries. By adopting these standards, you can protect your outboard motor, extend the life of your battery, and ensure a safer and more efficient boating experience.

Optimizing High-Performance 2-Stroke Outboard Engines with Aviation Fuel 100LL (AvGas) For high-performance 2-stroke outboard engines used in race boats, bass boats, and offshore applications, achieving the right fuel octane rating is critical for maximizing performance, reliability, and combustion efficiency. While 100LL AvGas (100 Low Lead Aviation Fuel) is primarily designed for turbocharged aircraft piston engines, its properties make it an effective and affordable alternative for boosting octane levels in 2-stroke marine engines. 100LL AvGas delivers high-octane performance comparable to many premium racing fuels. It has key characteristics that make it well-suited for 2-stroke outboard applications, including a high AKI rating of 105 , a consistent distillation curve , and a lead content similar to traditional racing fuels. Mercury Hi Performance recommended this fuel for the Mod VP 2.4 Liters and others back in the late 1980s and early 1990s. This allows for better lubricity and clean combustion. Its specific gravity , comparable to high-octane racing fuels, ensures proper air-fuel ratios and optimized performance. 100LL AvGas can be run directly in your engine or blended with lower-octane pump gas  to achieve the desired octane level, making it a cost-effective solution for performance applications. To use AvGas effectively, it’s important to understand octane ratings  and how they are measured in the U.S.A. versus Europe. In the U.S.A., octane is measured as AKI (Anti-Knock Index) , which is the average of RON (Research Octane Number)  and MON (Motor Octane Number) . The formula is (RON + MON) / 2 = AKI , and the number displayed at gas pumps reflects this value (e.g., 87, 91, 93). In Europe, however, the octane rating at the pump represents only the RON value. For reference, EU 95 RON equals U.S. 91 AKI , and EU 98 RON equals U.S. 93 AKI . Blending 100LL AvGas with pump gas is a common practice to reach the ideal octane level for 2-stroke engines. For example, 100LL AvGas  has an octane rating of 105 AKI , while premium pump gas in the U.S. is typically 91 AKI . Using a 50/50 blend  of AvGas and pump gas results in (105 + 91) / 2 = 98 AKI. This blended fuel provides a safe, high-octane solution for performance outboards, reducing the risk of detonation (knock) at high RPMs and under heavy loads. Integrating AvGas into your fuel system delivers significant performance benefits. The higher octane rating prevents pre-ignition and detonation, ensuring reliable operation under higher compression and more advanced timing. AvGas burns consistently, which reduces carbon buildup and promotes cleaner combustion. The lead content  enhances lubrication for critical engine components such as rings, pistons, and cylinder walls, extending engine life. Compared to specialized racing fuels, 100LL AvGas is more affordable and readily available, making it a practical alternative for race boats, bass boats, and offshore applications. Here are the key specifications of 100LL AvGas for 2-stroke outboard engines: Octane Rating (AKI):  105 AKI Lead Content:  0.56 g/L (Low Lead) Specific Gravity:  0.72–0.74 at 60°F (15.6°C) Distillation Range:  158°F to 338°F Fuel Compatibility:  Blends with pump gas, ethanol-free preferred Storage Stability:  Excellent, with a longer shelf life than pump gas While 100LL AvGas offers excellent benefits, there are a few considerations. The lead content, while beneficial for older engines, can cause spark plug fouling over time, so regular maintenance and plug checks are necessary. AvGas also has excellent shelf life compared to pump gas but requires proper storage in sealed containers to avoid contamination. Avoid blending AvGas with ethanol-containing fuels (like E10 or E15), as ethanol can cause phase separation and fuel system damage if not burned immediately. In conclusion, I do prefer true race fuels for particular racing applications but for most performance boaters, tournament anglers, and racing enthusiasts, 100LL AvGas  is an good solution for achieving high octane and consistent fuel delivery in 2-stroke outboard engines . Its 105 AKI rating, stable burn properties, and lubrication benefits make it a reliable alternative to traditional racing fuels. Blending 100LL with pump gas provides a practical way to fine-tune octane levels and reduce the risk of detonation, ensuring peak performance at high RPMs and under heavy loads. By understanding octane ratings, proper blending methods, and fuel compatibility, you can maximize your engine’s power, durability, and reliability on the water. Upgrade your fuel game with 100LL AvGas  and keep your high-performance 2-stroke engine running clean, powerful, and race-ready. Finally, running AvGas may require minor carburetor, and timing adjustments to optimize air-fuel ratios for clean, efficient combustion. General minimum octane guidance for the Mercury 2. 5 Liter at 25 degrees timing advance is estimated at 93 AKI octane for a motor under 140psi compression, 95 AKI octane at 140-155 psi, 96 AKI at 160psi, 97 AKI octane at 170psi. Talk with your motor builder and share your magic numbers! If you are not sure, it's best/safest to run a higher AKI octane rating vs sorry. You might be able to find a local airport to buy 100LL fuel. Be sure to bring your 5-gallon jugs or some may allow you to pull in your boat. https://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html Note: The transition to blue 100LL (100 low-lead) aviation gasoline (avgas) in the United States happened around 1975. This change was prompted by environmental and operational concerns with the older green 100/130 avgas, which had higher levels of tetraethyl lead (TEL). The blue dye in 100LL was introduced to differentiate it from other fuels and to indicate its reduced lead content compared to the older green avgas.

Technical Overview of Mercury WH Series Carburetor Jets: Main Jets, Idle Jets, and Vent Jets The Mercury WH series carburetor is a precision-engineered fuel delivery system used in high-performance Mercury 2.0 (OE), 2.4 (OE), 2.5, and 3.0 Liter 2-stroke outboard engines. Understanding its key components— main jets , idle jets , and vent jets —is essential for maintaining optimal performance and fuel efficiency. Each jet plays a specific role in regulating the fuel-air mixture, ensuring the engine runs smoothly across all operating ranges. Main Jets (High-Speed Jets) The main jet  controls the fuel supply to the engine at higher throttle settings. It is a critical component for achieving optimal performance at high speeds. Function : The main jet meters the amount of fuel delivered to the engine during high-speed operation. A jet with a smaller orifice reduces fuel flow, creating a leaner fuel-air mixture. Conversely, a jet with a larger orifice increases fuel flow, resulting in a richer mixture. Location : The main jet is located beneath the main jet plug (see Figure 16). Each carburetor requires two main jets. Adjustment and Tuning : Selecting the correct main jet size is crucial. Lean mixtures (smaller jets) improve fuel economy but may cause overheating under heavy loads. Rich mixtures (larger jets) provide better power and cooling but can reduce efficiency. Idle Jets The idle jet  regulates the air-fuel mixture during low-speed or idle conditions. Proper tuning of idle jets is essential for smooth idling and preventing stalling. Function : The idle jet meters the airflow to mix with fuel at idle speeds. A smaller orifice creates a richer mixture, improving cold starts and smooth operation at low RPMs. A larger orifice results in a leaner mixture, which may be more efficient but less stable at idle. Location : The idle jet is located beneath the idle jet plug (see Figure 18). Two idle jets are required per carburetor. Adjustment and Tuning : Correctly sized idle jets improve throttle response and prevent hesitation during acceleration from idle. However, excessive richness can cause fouled spark plugs, while an overly lean mixture can lead to rough idling or poor cold starting. Vent Jets The vent jet  is a unique feature of the WH carburetor series, designed to enhance fuel economy and performance in mid-range operation. Function : The vent jet supplies less than atmospheric pressure to the fuel bowl, leaning out the mid-range fuel-air mixture for better fuel efficiency. Removing the vent jet or using a larger orifice results in a richer mid-range mixture, while a smaller orifice leans it out further. Location : The vent jet is situated at the top of the carburetor near the vent passage (see Figure 17). Adjustment and Tuning : Optimizing vent jet sizing is crucial for maintaining smooth mid-range operation. A leaner mixture (smaller jet orifice) improves economy but may sacrifice acceleration. A richer mixture (larger jet orifice) enhances mid-range power delivery but can increase fuel consumption. Tuning and Maintenance Tips Understand Your Engine's Needs : Always refer to the engine’s service manual for recommended jet sizes and configurations. Different operating conditions, such as temperature, altitude, and load, may require adjustments. Inspect Regularly : Over time, jets can become clogged with debris or fuel deposits. Regular cleaning ensures consistent performance. Use Quality Parts : Always use Mercury OEM Parts or Quality Known Tested Aftermarket Parts from Buckshot Racing #77 to ensure compatibility and reliability. Tuning for Performance : Start with the recommended jet sizes and make incremental adjustments based on performance and engine diagnostics. A rich mixture provides safety but reduces efficiency, while a lean mixture maximizes economy but can increase wear. Conclusion The main jets , idle jets , and vent jets  of the Mercury WH series carburetor work together to deliver precise fuel-air mixtures across all RPM ranges. Proper understanding and maintenance of these components are critical for achieving peak engine performance, fuel efficiency, and reliability. By selecting the correct jet sizes and performing regular inspections, you can ensure that your Mercury WH carburetor continues to operate at its best, whether you’re cruising at high speed or idling in the marina.

I've been getting some questions on what octane I should run in the Mercury V6 2-stroke outboard (2.0, 2.4, 2.5 liters) based on heads/compression. First, it's important that our baseline is correct and we understand which octane rating is being used for your specific fuel. In the U.S., we use the average of RON plus MON, also known as AKI, (or RON+MON / 2 = AKI). This equals the minimum octane rating for unleaded motor fuels and is the number you see at the pump at your local gas station. In the example pictured, we are using aviation fuels, since this is a common and affordable way to increase the octane of pump gas by blending. Here you can see here, for example, 100LL AV GAS is the equivalent of 105 AKI, so a 50/50 blend with 91 from the pump gets you 98 AKI octane (105 + 91 / 2 = 98). In Europe (EU), the octane rating on the pump is simply the RON figure. EU 95 octane = US 91 octane and EU 98 octane = US 93 octane. You can apply this simple math to any fuel once you know the octane rating method to get to the desired number required for your set-up. While I prefer the race fuel over AVGAS for land-based racing outboards, I have successfully run blends of AVGAS with pump gas in older 2-stroke outboards to increase to octane rating. You might be able to find a local airport to buy 100LL fuel. Be sure to bring your 5-gallon jugs or some may allow you to pull in your boat. https://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html

Selecting the appropriate battery for legacy two-stroke outboard motors equipped with Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) systems is crucial for optimal performance and durability, preventing potential damage to your regulators, rectifiers, and batteries. CDI systems, integral to many older outboard engines, require specific electrical inputs to function correctly. Therefore, understanding the compatibility of various battery types with these systems is essential. General Recommended Battery Types for older Outboards: Flooded Lead-Acid Starting Batteries:  These batteries are designed to deliver high Cold Cranking Amps (CCA), providing the necessary power to start engines effectively. Their charging profiles align well with the electrical systems of older outboard motors, making them a reliable choice. Powersports Batteries:  Compact and capable of delivering high current output, powersports batteries are suitable for marine applications requiring robust starting power. They offer the necessary CCA for effective engine starts in older two-stroke outboards. Batteries to Avoid with older CDI Ignition Systems with a Stator: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries:  AGM batteries are sensitive to charging voltages and can be damaged by unregulated charging systems common in older outboards. CDI Electronics advises against using AGM batteries with their systems, as it may void warranties due to potential incompatibilities. Deep-Cycle Batteries:  Designed for prolonged, low-current discharge rather than the high-current bursts required for engine starting, deep-cycle batteries may not provide adequate CCA, leading to hard starts or failure to start. Avoid most Marine Batteries! Just because the manufacturer calls it a marine battery does not mean it will work with your 2-stroke outboard. Most likely it's for newer 4-strokes and a worse battery for older 2-stroke! Considerations for Lithium-Ion Batteries for Older Outboards: While lithium-ion batteries offer advantages such as lightweight design and longer lifespan, they present challenges when used with older CDI systems: Charging System Compatibility:  Older CDI systems may lack precise voltage regulation, posing risks of overcharging or undercharging lithium batteries. Some users have reported mixed results when using lithium batteries with older two-stroke engines, including issues like battery shutdowns during operation. Manufacturer Guidance:  Manufacturers like Mercury Marine approve certain lithium batteries for use with specific outboard models, primarily newer four-stroke engines. However, compatibility with older two-stroke models remains uncertain. Although we have had good luck running the larger high-quality power sports batteries with battery management systems. Technical Insights: Charging Profiles:  Lead-acid batteries tolerate a range of charging voltages and are less sensitive to fluctuations, making them suitable for older, unregulated charging systems. In contrast, AGM and low-cost lithium batteries require precise charging voltages; deviations can lead to battery damage or reduced lifespan. Electrical Resistance:  AGM batteries may exhibit higher internal resistance, potentially preventing the charging system from detecting a full charge, causing continuous charging and potential overheating. Load testing an AGM battery you ran often shows the cells have been destroyed while a voltage meter provides a false or good reading. Best Practices: Regular Maintenance:  Ensure battery terminals are clean and connections are secure to maintain optimal performance. Proper Storage:  Store batteries in environments that prevent exposure to extreme temperatures and moisture. Consult Manufacturer Guidelines:  Always refer to the outboard and battery manufacturers' recommendations to ensure compatibility and warranty compliance. In summary, for legacy two-stroke outboard motors with CDI ignition systems, traditional flooded lead-acid starting batteries or powersports batteries are recommended due to their compatibility with the engine's electrical and charging systems. While modern battery technologies like AGM and lithium-ion offer advantages, their specific charging requirements and sensitivities may not align with the capabilities of older outboard motors, potentially leading to performance issues or equipment damage. Legacy Outboard Manufacturers Utilizing CDI Systems: Several legacy outboard manufacturers have integrated CDI systems into their two-stroke engines to enhance ignition performance: Mercury Marine:  Implemented CDI systems across various two-stroke outboard models. Johnson/Evinrude (OMC):  Employed CDI ignition systems in numerous two-stroke outboards, enhancing ignition performance and reliability. Yamaha:  Integrated CDI systems into their two-stroke outboard engines to improve spark generation and engine efficiency. Suzuki Marine:  Utilized CDI ignition systems in their two-stroke outboards, contributing to effective combustion and performance. Chrysler/Force:  Adopted CDI systems in their two-stroke outboard motors to enhance ignition timing and engine operation. These manufacturers recognized the advantages of CDI systems in delivering reliable and efficient ignition, particularly beneficial for the high-revving nature of two-stroke engines. This article aims to provide general guidance on selecting suitable batteries for legacy two-stroke outboard motors with CDI ignition systems, ensuring both performance and longevity. Legacy two-stroke outboard motors Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) systems Battery selection for outboard motors Flooded lead-acid starting batteries Powersports batteries for marine engines AGM battery compatibility with CDI systems Lithium-ion batteries in marine applications Outboard motor charging system compatibility Mercury Marine CDI ignition Johnson/Evinrude two-stroke CDI systems Yamaha outboard ignition systems Suzuki Marine two-stroke engines Chrysler/Force outboard motors High-performance outboard ignition Marine engine battery maintenance